Just a few weeks before my big move to Copenhagen, we went to explore the Faroe Islands. I knew very little about this place outside of whaling, extreme weather and a Mikkeller bar, so I was keen to find out more. Making a change from Manchester, this time I flew out from Edinburgh - one of the most organised airports I’ve been to, and had bonus points for a Brewdog bar. I was flying on the Faroese national airline Atlantic who were serving local beers at a very reasonable 30 DKK. Landing at the tiny terminal, we waited for the bus - the timetable is roughly scheduled to match arrivals and departures. You can get a weekly travel pass for 700 DKK, this gets you on all the long haul buses and most ferries so there was no need to shell out for a hire car.
And the scenery began. I spent the week wide-eyed at each otherworldly view we travelled through. Passing bays, mountains, waterfalls and turf roofed houses, we got off the bus at Hoyvík. After stocking up at a supermarket we found our apartment, passing countless children on trampolines along the way. We were around 40 minutes away from the centre of Tórshavn, but the walk was so pretty I didn’t mind this extra journey at the start of each day. There were also free buses that could get us there in 10 minutes. Like proper tourists, our first meal was a Burger King at the largest/only shopping centre in the country. Walking down to the bay, we found the Mikkeller bar, which will always be my happy place, despite this one having dangerously low ceiling beams. It had the kind of door that can only be opened dramatically, so everyone turns around and stares at the new arrivals. Determined to find another bar, we walked through the narrow streets of turf roof houses and kids on every corner in broad 10pm daylight, making our way to Sirkus to have some Icelandic lager. Around midnight we made our way back through the eerie silence...until a car full of lads sped past and barked at us. So it wasn’t much different from a Friday night in York.
The next morning, the apartment owner introduced himself and checked we had everything that we need. He noticed that we locked the door and politely said that there's no need. He had a point, the house next to us left their garage door open all week. We then set off for a walk around Tórshavn, this time seeing the turf rooftops and colourful paint jobs in daylight. Walking around the government buildings at Tinganes was like a trip to Hobbiton with their green mossy coverings. Then we made our way out through the suburbs, and in no time we were in the mountainous wilderness. Our moderate hike took us past many lakes and cairns, eventually arriving at Kirkjubøur. This small village of around a dozen houses is one of the oldest on the island. The church was holding a wedding, so the national dress was in full display, and someone had put a young goat up on one of the turf roofs. Maybe this was a good luck charm? Hopefully it wasn’t a sacrifice, either way the little thing wasn't impressed. It was a stunning location at the southern tip of the island, with views into the empty ocean beyond. Luckily we timed it right to get the last bus home.
After an early start, and another picturesque walk into the capital, we got a bus that retraced our journey back past the airport to Sørvágur. We took a ferry to Mykines, the famous puffin island, with a boat ride and destination that was straight out of Jurassic Park. After an initial panic navigating a narrow ridge path in high winds, I calmed down when I realised what the dots in the air around me were - the sky was full of puffins. These chunky colourful heroes were everywhere and I was deeply in love. There were clear rules for tourists on how to respect both the animals and their home, but more or less everyone was breaking these, shoving cameras right in their beaks. It got me thinking - what are you here for - the experience, or the photos to show off? Are the two mutually exclusive? I fully admit I stopped and took photos as well (you were not supposed to pause in the cliffs containing the puffin’s homes) so I guess I’m also a Like-chasing monster. But I like to think I kept a respectful distance. And for what it’s worth, many of the birds seemed all too used to this experience. So don’t forget to follow me on Instagram @HypocriticalBrenda.
Mykines also offered stunning views of many of the surrounding islands, and we were fortunate to be there on such a clear, sunny day. The puffin area lasted around a couple of hours, so we had a few hours to kill in the tiny island village before the boat back. This small cluster of homes had no cars or roads. We recharged on tea and cake before going on another walk and discovered The Cutest Lambs. One was very curious about us and our sandwiches and made me promise to be a stricter vegetarian. We had a relaxing rest at the top of a hill with views for days, until my fingers went numb. After more cake and beer at the cafe, we took the boat back. I fully did not expect to be sunburnt on this trip, but red faced I was. Opting to walk from the ferry terminal to the airport bus home, we passed a black sand beach with the tide out, with crinkled sand like a giant fingerprint. The runway landing lights were perched up on towers to meet the tiny runway up on a hill, and once again it was disorientingly daylight at 10pm.
The following day brought us back on the airport bus, this time we getting out at Miðvágur with the aim to hike up the peak at Trælanípan. We made our way alongside the lake at Sørvágsvatn that has a waterfall (Bøsdalafossur) into the sea. There was a charge to enter the trail due to people walking off track and causing damage. So it was once again disappointing to see people doing just that, Go Pro in hand to get that killer photo. Great job guys. A hail storm hit just as we reached the peak, hail on sunburnt face is not a sensation I've had before. Making our way back along the lakeside, we got to see a few planes fly overhead to land at the airport. Eating many chocolatey snacks during our wait at the bus stop, we went back to the flat to recharge a little. At the apartment, we found the owner had left a key in our door, unlocked. Probably another prompt that we didn't need to lock up. In the evening we went to a recommended seafood restaurant called, of all things, Barbara, which was conveniently next door to Mikkeller. After a starter of home baked bread with aioli I had one of the best fish soups that I've ever had, so rich and delicious. And the pudding! Chilled milk chocolate with ice cream on top, covered in crystallised white chocolate. Heavenly. The bill even came in a giant mussel shell. Then it was back to Mikkeller for many, many nightcaps before getting the last bus home.
Thermals and waterproof trousers at the ready, on the next day our destination was the port for a ferry to Nólsoy, the closest island to Tórshavn. We walked the length of the island, a steep start leveling off to marshy lands with a lighthouse at the end. During the hike, several snow and hail storms passed over, but this time I felt better prepared for whatever the sky wanted to throw at me. I was less prepared for being on the final stretch and seeing our ferry make its approach across the bay, and then having to peg it from the top of a massive hill all the way back to the terminal, battling rocky paths and my flailing limbs along the way. I died, but we made it in time. Back in the capital, we cheated on Mikkeller in plain sight and went across the road to Essabar, which had lots of local beers on tap from Föroya Bjór.
Our next day’s journey was to Klaksvík, the second largest town in the country and what was meant to be our first helicopter trip. The national airline also runs a helicopter service across the islands and it's the quickest way to get around. Unfortunately our ride was cancelled due to an emergency, which can happen (either that or bad weather can cause cancellations) so we went there by bus instead. The route took us through islands we hadn't seen yet, and under the longest road tunnel they’ve built so far. The weather got worse the further east we progressed, and was chucking it down when we arrived at the bus shelter which full of intimidating smoking teens. We sheltered in Norðoya Heimavirki, described as the best shop in the Faroes to get locally made knitwear. The produce is pricey, but gorgeous, and all the money goes straight back to the local economy. As I'm facing fierce Nordic winters ahead of me, I figured I should invest in something Sarah Lund would be proud of. That aside, there's not a lot else to do, especially in that weather. The local brewery has a shop, and there was an unexpected branch of Flying Tiger, but that's about it. The jumper and hat I bought were worth the journey alone.
Our last full day was a public holiday, which meant the buses were scarce. We spent the day walking around Tórshavn, through the outskirts and into the wilderness again, eventually reaching a wind turbine farm. Then we went to the Tjóðsavn (National Museum), conveniently close to our house, but probably containing all the history you could read in a guide book. The ticket also contains entry to the nearby Hoyvíksgarður (an open air museum) which was slightly more worth it. Of course we spent the final evening trying all the beers at Essabar and Mikkeller that we hadn’t checked off on Untappd yet.
Conclusions
You don't need to hire a car. We got everywhere we wanted to go by public transport. The suburban buses around the capital are free, and for other buses and ferries the weekly pass is well worth the investment.
You don't need to stay in the centre of Tórshavn. Our apartment in Hoyvík was close to bus stops and a supermarket. Plus the walk was delightful!
Prepare for all weathers. Sturdy walking boots, thermal under layers and waterproof outer layers are essential. You can experience four seasons in an hour! Fortunately we really lucked out with the weather while we were there (mid May), it could have been so much worse.
Self cater food as much as possible, eating out is expensive.
Go to Mykines but be sure book your boat or helicopter transport well in advance. The guides say bring your own food as there's nothing there, but since that was written an enterprising local has opened a well stocked café.
Go to Barbara, you'll want to reserve a table, this can be done on its website.
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